After a flight to Durban and three-hour drive, we arrived at Thanda Game Reserve, a private reserve owned by the founder of IKEA for a three-day safari. We expected to be in a safari tent, but were taken to a three-coned structure instead. We had been upgraded to a Villa. The villas were beyond luxurious. We entered the main part which had a large living room. Off this was an outdoor area with a table. To the left was our bedroom with a fireplace. The large bed was tented with graceful mosquito netting. The next room to the right was the dressing/bathroom with two sinks and a shower. Next to it was a toilet room. Outside was another shower. Exiting the villa to the patio was a private plunge pool and an outdoor double bed under a tiki-like cover.
We had morning and evening drives of three to four hours each. Not only did we get the villa, but we also got the most experienced guide at the reserve. Truman had been with Thanda since its inception in 2002. The reserve consists of 37,000 acres.
On our first drive, we saw a huge herd of elephants with young. They came so close to the Range Rover we were in. We just sat and watched them for several minutes. Next, we encountered a group of Wildebeests—gnus—then giraffes, impala, two black-backed jackals, and zebras.
It is so hard to explain the feeling as you sit in the open range rover just a few feet from these wild animals and observe them in their natural habitat. Just before dusk, we stopped and had a “wine” break. In the back of the Range Rover, they unpacked wine, sodas, and hors d’ouerves. Then we looked for nightlife as we returned to the lodge. Dinner at the lodge was very romantic. We were seated at tables for two on the balcony. The tables were covered with linen cloths and rose petals. The three-course meal was gourmet. The chef came around to each table to explain the choices and take our orders. There are only nine villas, so nine tables. The tenters eat at the tent site.
Our second day at the reserve started at 5 a.m. We were to meet at the lodge at 5:30 for a cup of coffee and juice before we took off. The morning drives were the best. It was so quiet, and the animals were just rising. The list of animals we saw was long: 3 rhinos (white), warthogs, 2 cheetahs, wildebeests, giraffes (necking), nyala, kudu, zebras, ibis, vultures, impalas, an ant lion, lots of aardvark holes, monkeys, and a communal spider colony. There are trees that have a green substance like pollen covering their trunks. They photosynthesize through their trunks. They are called fever trees. Also, we saw African aloe and wild cotton.
About two hours in, we stopped for a coffee break. Then more tracking. We saw so many vultures, that we thought there was a kill nearby, but we couldn’t find it. After about 3 and ½ hours, we returned to the lodge for breakfast. Breakfast is in two stages: the cold table and the hot meal. The cold table has various pastries, cold meats and cheeses, yogurt, granola, fruit, juice—it was enough for a whole breakfast. Then we were served from the hot options: eggs, bacon, sausage, mushroom, tomatoes, potatoes, and omelets. You ordered whatever you wanted from the list.
After breakfast we had a break until tea at 2. We went back to the villa, tried the pool, rested and slept. High Tea at 2:00 p.m. was lovely. Again, juice, tea, cold drinks, pastries, and sandwiches. We sat on the veranda of the lodge and watched wildlife come to the watering hole below: wart hogs, nyalas, zebras, and giraffes. Then we chatted with the other guests. There are all so interesting.
At 3:30 we left for the evening drive. Some of the game we saw were vervet monkeys, wart hogs, impalas, zebra, giraffes, and wildebeests. The two standouts were a male lion resting after eating. We got about five feet away, and he just lay there. The other was a herd of African or Cape buffalo. They are the most dangerous animals. We watched the herd at a water hole and move away. There were all ages. In addition to the animals, we saw an African Harrier hawk, weavers, crested franklins and cocktail ants. At the end of the ride, we met up with the tenters and had a big outdoor feast with Zulu dancing. It reminded me of a luau. All the local food on a buffet, and entertainment. It was fun. Then home to our Villa and rest.
Our next day our 5:00 wake up call came, and we got ready, went to the lodge, had coffee and embarked on our ride. This morning we didn’t stop for coffee because Truman saw leopard tracks and tried to find them. We got so engrossed that the time flew. We saw lots of other wildlife, but the leopard was the last of the “big-five” that we hadn’t seen yet. No luck, but a great drive. Breakfast followed as yesterday. Then the day at the Villa. During the day, a Nyala came up to the villa and walked right up to the walkway between sections. We could touch him—but didn’t! High Tea came and we met new arrivals. We headed for our evening drive. More elephants, giraffes, nyala, etc. We found a lioness that had just eaten a wildebeest—the carcass was still there. She was lying and digesting the kill. She had buried the entrails. There is so much game here. Instead of our “cocktail break,” we met up at a campfire with all the others for drinks, hors d’oeuvres, and Zulu dancing. After the bonfire, we headed for the lodge for dinner. Another gourmet meal.
Two of our new arrivals came especially to see the African wild dogs. The coat of each dog is unique, like a fingerprint. They also have only 4 toes per foot. They are their own genus, so cannot breed with domestic dogs or wolves. These dogs are not at the preserve, but on neighboring land, and Truman had made arrangements to enter the land totry to find them and lure them onto the preserve. He was working with a woman who has been studying the wild dogs for her Master’s Degree. That meant that wake up would be a 4 a.m. So, it was right to bed.
Our final day We rose at 4, met at 4:30 and took off to see the wild dogs. As we left, we saw a giraffe looking into our villa. Just a short way down the road, Zacs saw the leopards. We stopped, drove in close and saw the mother and one of her two cubs. What a sight. The last of the Big Five. Then it was off to the dogs!! We found the researchers and took up watch. The researchers were going to drag the carcass of an impala behind their truck to try to move the dogs onto Thanda property. We waited for some time, and then one by one four of the six adults came to the carcass. They didn’t want to move until the pups came. Eventually we saw all nine of the pups and the other two adults. They made very slow progress. It might take days to move them. After watching them for a while, we headed back and left the researchers to their job. We were told that we were very lucky to have seen the wild dogs. They are a vanishing species in East Africa. Today was a wonderful end to our Safari. We have seen the big five: African Elephant, Cape Buffalo, Lion, Black Rhinoceros, and Leopard. And the wild dogs. Breakfast was by range rover table, so we could spend our last morning together. Then it was packing, enjoying the deck and lounging until 11 when we had to head back to the lodge to be picked up and transported to the gate. A trip of a lifetime.
The Big Five
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