We started in Zagreb, Croatia’s capital and largest city. Zagreb lies in the northern part of the country along the Sava River. It is on the southern slopes of the Medvednica mountains, foothills of the Dinaric Alps, close to the border with Slovenia.
Zagreb’s history dates to Roman times. In 1094 CE the Diocese of Zagreb was established. To the north of the Cathedral, on one hill, was Kapitol and Gradec lay on a neighboring hill. The border between the two was the Medveščak stream. Each settlement was surrounded by high city walls. In 1242 Gradec became a free royal city, but conflicts between it and Kapitol continued for years. In 1850 Gradec and Kaptol were united into a single settlement called Zagreb. In 1991 Zagreb became the capital of modern Croatia.
We started in the lower section of Zagreb walking through the vibrant city.
The Octagon is a former bank building that is now a mall. It is a passageway that connects Ilica Street and Petar Preradović Square. Along the passage are various shops. In the center is a beautiful dome above an octagonal atrium. It was built between 1898 and 1900.
We passed the Serbian Orthodox Cathedral of the Transfiguration, which is being repaired from the last earthquake, so we could not enter.
It was built in 1865-66 on the site of an old Catholic church, St. Margaret’s, dating from 1334 and sold to the Orthodox in 1794.
The statue in the square is of poet Petar Preradović, sculpted by Ivan Preradović (1818 – 1872).
Preradovic wrote poetry under the strong influence of national romanticism. His life, split between the three distinct military, political and literary fields, was troubled by poor health and a gambling problem. He died in Fahrafeld, Austria at the age of 54. He had seven children. One of his grandchildren was Paula von Preradovic, the Austrian poet who went on to write that country’s national anthem.
Next we walked to the funicular that would take us to the upper part of town. This very short, and steep, funicular railway line, constructed in 1888, connects the Lower and Upper Towns of Zagreb. The view of Zagreb and the surrounding area was spectacular.
At the top of the Funicular stands Lotrščak Tower, built in the middle of the 13th century to protect the south city gate.
For the last 100 years a cannon has been fired from the tower every day at noon, allegedly to commemorate one day in the mid-15th century when the cannon was fired at the Turks at noon, who were camped across the Sava River. On its way down, the cannonball happened to hit a rooster, which was blown to bits – according to legend, this was so demoralizing for the Turks that they decided not to attack the city. However, the cannon shot actually allows churches to synchronize their clocks.
On our way to explore the upper town, we passed the Jesuit church of St. Catherine, built in the early 17th century. It is a common place for couples to marry. It has many beautiful pieces of Baroque art and stucco reliefs, but unfortunately it too was closed for renovation.
The second and third pictures are of Greek Catholic Co-cathedral of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The Greek Catholic church and seminary (built in 1681) existed on the Upper Town before the 17th century. This Church was intended for the Greek Catholic believers, mostly people from Žumberak Mountains, Uskoks and clerics that lived in and around Zagreb. It is not possible to determine when was this Church built because a fire that broke out in 1766 destroyed most of the Church’s books that would give a precise date. The current church dedicated to St. Cyril and Methodius was built in 1886 and was designed by Hermann Bollé. It is built in the neo-Byzantine style of historicism.
Moving on we came to the Krvavi Most, the Bloody Bridge. It is named after a former bridge of Medvescak Creek. The creek divided Gredec and Kapitol. Because of the constant conflicts between the two it was named the Bloody Bridge. When the creek was diverted the bridge became a road that kept the name because of the history.
Next we arrived at St. Mark’s Square. St Mark’s square is the centre of Gornje grad and is dominated by the Church of St. Mark, in the middle of the square. The rest of the square is dominated by government buildings around the square.
St. Mark’s Church is one of Zagreb’s most emblematic buildings. With its distinctive tiled roof and centuries-old history, this church is not just a place of worship but a symbol of Zagreb’s identity.
St. Mark’s Church dates back to the 13th century. Originally constructed in the Romanesque style, the church was significantly rebuilt in the Gothic style during the 14th century.
The most striking feature of St. Mark’s Church is its colorful tiled roof, completed in 1880. The roof tiles are arranged to represent the coat of arms of Zagreb (a white castle on a red background) and the Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slavonia, and Dalmatia.. This vibrant display not only adds to the aesthetic beauty of the church but also symbolizes the city’s and the country’s historical and political heritage.
The Gothic portal, composed of 15 figures in shallow niches, was sculpted in the 14th century. The interior contains sculptures by Ivan Meštrović, though the church is open only at Mass times.
Next we headed to the Stone Gate. This eastern gate to medieval Gradec Town is now a shrine. According to legend, a great fire in 1731 destroyed every part of the wooden gate except for the painting of the Virgin and Child. People believe that the painting possesses miraculous powers and come regularly to pray, light candles, and leave flowers. Square stone slabs are engraved with thanks–Hvala–and praise to the Virgin. On the western facade of the Stone Gate you’ll see a statue of Dora Kropiceva, the hero of an 18th-century historical novel, who lived with her father next to the Stone Gate.
Leading up to the Stone Gate on the right is the Black Eagle Pharmacy, dating from the 14th century. Beyond being the first pharmacy, it also boasts the most famous pharmacist in Croatian history. Niccolo Alighieri, the great-grandson of Dante Alighieri, worked here. Today the pharmacy is a popular tourist location, but it’s also still a working pharmacy. It has continued operations from its opening in 1355. It was amazing to go inside to see some of the old vials and drawers of medicine.
Bloody Bridge is a street in Zagreb that reminds us of Croatian history famous for frequent attacks on two small cities (Kaptol and Gradec). It is a small road that connects Tkalčićeva street and Radićeva street. It is called Bloody Bridge because of the violent and bloody attacks that occurred in this place. In medieval times, frequent attacks between Gradec and Kaptol started in the 14th century, and they had finally reconciled in the 18th century. They’ve to build the bridge together, and it was converted into the road which connected Township and Kaptol.
Coffee with the Greats! Passing through the Eastern Gate you encounter a small outdoors cafe. Sitting at one of the tables is a sculpture of Ruder Bošković with an empty chair, beckoning you to sit down and join him. This is one of about 17 “greats” located throughout Zagreb. Bošković was an astronomer, physicist, and Jesuit priest, who is most famous for his ideas about atoms, which in certain respects were far ahead of his time. In 1870, Mendeléev compared Bošcović to Copernicus and held him to be the “founder of modern atomism.”
The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin and St. Stephen and Ladislaus stands in Kapitol Square.
This cathedral’s twin spires soar over the city and are considered landmarks since they are visible from most parts of the city. Originally a Gothic cathedral, it has been transformed many times over because of earthquakes and fire. However, the sacristy still contains a cycle of frescos dating from the 13th century. The 1880 earthquake badly damaged the building, and reconstruction in a neo-Gothic style began around the turn of the 20th century.
Standing 355.6 ft. tall, it is the second tallest building in Croatia and the most monumental Gothic church southeast of the Alps.
Due to damage in the 2020 earthquake, it is again under reconstruction.
A couple other pictures I have to show: The Apple Store in Zagreb for our grandson, Zoe, and the hotel we stayed in.
Our stay in Zagreb was a wonderful introduction to Croatia. There is always more to see and experience. That is for another time. Next we will visit Plitvice Lakes National Park.