Wangdue Phodrang is a town and capital on the way to Gangtey and is the last town before entering central Bhutan from the Punakha valley. It is a small town with a prominent landmark, the Wangdue Phodrang Dzong which sits on a small hill. The Dzong was built in 1639 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal on a ridge that looks like a sleeping elephant. To get there we crossed the Pele la Pass, famous for the rare black necked cranes. The black Necked Crane Information Center and Preserve was just a short walk down from our hotel.
The first thing we encountered on our way was a herd of yaks blocking the road. In Bhutanese Buddhist tradition, we stopped and waited for them to finish grazing around the road and wandering down in. It gave time for us to get lots of pictures. There was no “shoo” or horn honking. Our driver just turned off the car and waited. This was close to the Pele La chorten at the top of the 11,000 ft. pass between Central Bhutan and the Phobjikha valley. The Chorten is surrounded by a huge assortment of prayer flags as well as the yaks.
The Pele la Pass Chorten
In addition to the yaks, travelers find this Chorten located at the top of Pele la Pass surrounded by prayer flags to send blessings to those who pass. The Pass is one of the highest in Bhutan, and very narrow and winding. The view in good weather is said to be spectacular; however, we had clouds.
Arrival at Gakiling
When we arrived in the Gakiling, we went first to our hotel: the Gakiling Guesthouse. It sits on top of a hill with a panoramic view of the valley below. After settling in, we had dinner and retired for the night. Of the places we stayed, this was by far the most “rustic.” We had no heat, and in February at 11,000 ft. it was cold. The bathroom had a curtain separating a cold shower from the rest of the room. However as with everywhere else, the people were nice and food, traditional and and flavorful. The chilis were served on the side for us. Also we were awakened in the morning to the sounds of the black-necked cranes who winter in the area.
Our Guesthouse
Above: View From Guesthouse
The next morning was a highlight. We were here during the week of the King’s 40th birthday celebration. Because of that the school was putting on a festival that we were invited to. After breakfast, we drove to the school to see the events.
Of course, the children wore their ghos and kiras. Before the celebration began, they all stood in front of the large Buddha statue and canted. Then they said their pledge to the flag.
The chief Abbot was among the dignitaries present.
Then the ceremony began. First various awards were given to students and faculty. When each received their award, a white scarf was placed around their neck as we received when we arrived.
Then came the regional dances. The regional dances are one thing that seems to keep the country united. The students participated by age group. It was so interesting to watch the dances as well as the students watching as others took their turns. They were respectful and quiet.
The school itself was covered with posters, some in English and Dzongkha, and some in just English. That surprised me. I learned that English is taught from primary through secondary school. The basic language of instruction in Dzongka but students who complete secondary school are bilingual, at least. Some also speak Hindi and other regional languages. Our guide was fluent in both English and Dzongka; our driver understood some English but was not fluent.
From this monastery we walked about two miles through a valley to meet up with our driver. On the walk we encountered some young boys who were monastic students, playing in their robes on the hillside. They seemed so young to have decided to be monks. Boys as young as six can enter the monastery. On our way too we encountered a bull coming toward us on the narrow path. My immediate reaction to our guide was you have to get his out of our way. His response was no, we will move out of his way; so we took a few steps off the path, up a slope and let the bull pass. That is the typical Buddhist response. We also passed a flock of cranes.
When we met up with our driver, he took us to lunch and then to the Black-Necked Crane Center to learn about these birds. This was another highlight of the trip. The Phobjika valley just below the monastery is famous for the nesting ground of these birds as they migrate from Tibet. A popular legend states that they circle the Gangtey Monastery three times on their final landing approach, when they arrive, and they do the same upon leaving at the end of the season.
At the Black Necked Crane Centre, we learned about these majestic birds through exhibits and saw some who are captive and cared for there. The center is walking distance from our hotel, and we even saw some birds in the wild on our trek from the Monastery.. Conservation efforts for these endangered birds is important to the residents of this valley.
Cranes in the Nature Center
Two cranes in the Wild
The Gangtey Monastery
After a wonderful morning at the school, we moved on to the Gangtey Monastery, the oldest monastery in Bhutan. It is located on a hilltop at 9,200 ft. Built in 1613 by the first Peling Gyalsé Rinpoche, it is an important monastery for the Nyingmapa school of thought. Nyingmapa is the oldest of the four schools of Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery also has a monastic college where hundreds of monks study for nine years.
We woke up to snow the next morning!! But our driver was good and got us safely to our next destination.