Thimphu is the capital of Bhutan and its largest city. It is situated on the Raidak River at an altitude varying from 7,375 ft.to 8,688 ft. Thimphu became the capital of Bhutan in 1961 during the reign of the third Druk Gyalpo (Dragon King), Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. Before that, the capital was located in Punakha. You will learn about Punakha in the next post. The shift to Thimphu was a part of the modernization efforts initiated by the king, who wanted to centralize the government and introduce reforms.
While the city has embraced elements of modern infrastructure and technology, it has also carefully preserved its cultural heritage and traditional Bhutanese architecture. The juxtaposition of the old and the new in Thimphu is a testament to Bhutan’s unique approach to development, which prioritizes Gross National Happiness (GNH) over Gross Domestic Product (GDP).
One of the distinctive features of Thimphu is the absence of traffic lights, which is a deliberate choice by the Bhutanese government to promote a more harmonious and people-centric approach to traffic control. The absence of traffic lights reflects the country’s commitment to creating a sustainable and holistic living environment that emphasizes the balance between modernization and cultural preservation.
Have you heard of the Takin?
Thimphu is home to the Takin, the national animal of Bhutan, which can be seen at the Motithang Takin Preserve. We spent lots of time at the preserve watching the large but seemingly gentle animals.
Many say that the Takin is a creature composed by assembling parts of other animals. It is described as a “goat-antelope” or a “gnu-goat.’ One biologist described it as a “bee-stung moose” because of its squashed snout. Legend has it that the animal was created by yhe great Buddhist yogi, Drupa Kunley, and it can be found only in Bhutan and nearby mountainous areas. Taxonomists place it in a category of its own as it is not similar enough to any other animal to fit established categories. They are vegetarians.
Temples and Dzongs
Of course there were many temples and Dzongs to see as well.
The National Memorial Chorten
This large chorten is one of the most visible landmarks in Thimphu, and for many Bhutanese it is the focus of daily worship. The Tibetan-style stupa was built in 1974 as a memorial to the third king, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. You will see elderly people shuffling meditatively around the chorten, families lighting butter lamps, and kids dressed in their smartest ghos and kiras on their way to or from school. This stupa is predominantly white with spires of gold, and was erected in 1974.I nside the shrine is a photo of the king in traditional, royal dress, as well as mandalas, paintings, statues and shrines dedicated to the king. It is a Tibetan style Chorten with a pyramidal pillar crowned by a crescent moon and sun. You can see the parade of people circumnavigating the chorten.
Tashiccho Dzong
Built in the 18th century by Shabdrung Rinpoche to house government officials, the Tashiccho Dzong is the center of both civil and monastic bodies. The civil section includes the throne room of the king and the National Library of Bhutan, which preserves ancient texts and manuscripts. The main structure of the whitewashed building is two-storeyed with three-storeyed towers at each of the four corners topped by triple-tiered golden roofs. There is also a large central tower or utse. The towers and roof are beautifully lit at night. The monastic side houses chapels and room with statues and other artwork. It seemed different to see monks and soldiers walking and working in the same place. Through the trees we could see the golden roof of the King’s residence. Our guide was so impressed that the King lived in a one-story house.
Simtokha Dzong
Simtokha Dzong (Palace of the Profound Meaning of Secret Mantras) oldest surviving fortress-monastery in Bhutan. Simtokha Dzong was built in 1629 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal. The site is said to mark the spot where a demon vanished into a rocky outcrop, giving it it’s name. Simtokha is often said to be the first dzong built in Bhutan, but there were dzongs in Bhutan as early as 1153. However, this was the first dzong to incorporate both monastic and administrative facilities. It is also the oldest dzong to have survived as a complete structure. The utse (central tower) is three storeys high, and prayer wheels around the courtyard are backed by more than 300 slate carvings depicting saints and philosophers. Colorful banners hang throughout. Of course we had to perform the kora (circumnavigating the shrine three times) before we could enter.
The most impressinve shrine in the country is the enormous statue of Buddha Dordenma in the Kuenselphodrang Nature Park. this huge statue is the largest sitting Buddha in the world at 177 feet tall. The gilded bronze statue was built between 2006 and 2015 to celebrate the 60th anniversary of Bhutan’s fourth king, Jigme Singye Wangchu. When we entered the plaza we were given plates filled with incense for those who have died from Corona virus. We circled the Buddha three times and then went to enter the chapel. Because there were so many people visiting, foreigners were not allowed to enter. It was beautiful to see everyone in their colorful dress.
The statue isn’t just something to look at; you can also go inside it! (As with all religious sites, you must remove your shoes and can’t film or take photos inside). Inside the statue, you’ll find 125,000 smaller Buddha statues. One hundred thousand of them are eight inches tall and the other 25,000 are 12 inches tall. However, as I mentioned we were unable to enter because of the number of people.
The statue represents the moment of enlightenment with Buddha seated cross-legged in lotus position
This statue fulfills the prophecy from the 8th century A.D. of the yogi Sonam Zangppo. He prophesied that a large statue would be built over looking the city that would bring blessings, peace, and happiness to the whole world.
In front of the square are tall, golden statues of Bodhisattvas. The bodhisattvas each represent 1 of the 8 qualities of Buddha.
Here are the Bodhisattvas with monks praying around them.
Below is the view looking down at Thimphu from the square:
In Bhutan, the people seem to use two terms for temple interchangeably: Stupa and Chorten. Stupa comes from the Sanskrit language, and Chorten is from Tibetan. I use both., depending on what was used when I visited the temple.
Our next stop was the Simply Bhutan Museum where we learned about Bhutanese life. Simply Bhutan is a living museum, resembling a village, and cultural park. It offers one the opportunity to see traditional Bhutanese life.
We entered the into a mud-rammed house typical of the medieval period. We were offered a sip of arra, a rice spirit. Right away we encountered a smoky aura in the reception room. The walls of the room were lined with photos and information about each of Bhutan’s kings.
There were rooms filled with preserved ancient household items. And a room where we could try on a “gho” and “kira”. As we continued through the “museum,” we saw how mud houses were built and heard the prayer song chanted before they begin construction.
There were outdoor stands of handicrafts, masks, chilis, and, yes, decorative penises. The penis is a national symbol, and you see them everywhere. They are believed to bring good fortune to people. We learned more about this when we visited the Fertility Stupa in Punaka (next post).
The National Sport of Bhutan is Archery. There was a venue to try your had at that. Bob was brave and did. The is our guide to his right.
After we enjoyed all the venues and learned about Bhutanese life, we were taken to the dining area where we ate a traditional meal and were entertained with traditional dances.
This was a wonderful, informative, and entertaining stop. Our time in Thimphu was amazing. We saw so much history, culture, and many temples. We saw where the King and Queen live, in a very modest house. We way where their children go to school, to a public school. The beauty and simplicity of this life has much to offer.
The final spot to visit in Thimphu is what most people associate with Bhutan: Tiger’s Nest Monastery.