Unfortunately, it was raining as we took off for the medieval city of Siena, about 15 miles southwest of Colle.
Siena is a gothic, brick hill town that has remained remarkably unchanged throughout the centuries. It is divided into 17 districts, each with its own banner, symbol, and colors. These districts were set up in the Middle Ages to supply troops to the many military companies that were hired to defend Siena as it fought to preserve its independence from Florence and other nearby city states. Today in the 21st century, every important event – baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories at the Palio, even wine or food festivals – is celebrated only within one’s own district. As we walked through the city moving from district to district, we noticed the different banners and symbols of the district. The city center with its winding street and Medieval and Renaissance buildings is a UNESCO site.
The bus dropped us off at the Medieval brick fortress, Fortezza Medicea, in the Piazza d’ Liberta. We walked from the Gaia Fountain with its Bas-reliefs and statue of St. Catherine to St Catherine’s Basilica, the church of San Domenico. The basilica is a brick church, built in 1226. As a working parish, we were not allowed to take pictures inside. The frescos, high altar, glass were stunning. The most striking part was the reliquary with St. Catherine’s mummified head and thumb. The Chapel, which housed these relics, has frescos from Il Sodoma and Franisco Vanni, dating from the 1500s. The frescos show episodes from Catherine’s life. The church also had a portrait of St. Catherine by Andrea Vanni. Matteo di Giovanni created the altar. The modern stained glass over the altar replaces original glass now in a museum. St. Catherine, born near the basilica, was the first female doctor of the Roman Church and was largely responsible for returning the papacy to Rome from Avignon. She is Italy’s patron saint and lived from 1347-80.
From the Basilica of St. Domenico, we walked down the Via Sapience, past Italy’s first public funded university, founded in 1240, to the Duomo (the Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption). The cathedral was built mostly between 1215 and 1263. Giovanni Pisano designed the façade in 1285 and also carved the pulpit. The pulpit depicts scenes from the life of Christ. The marble columns, and etched marble floors are amazing as well as the frescos, altar, and dome. The Piccolomini Library is stunning. One has to stoop to get in, but when you enter, it is vast, covered with frescos depicting Pope Pius II’s life. In addition to the lovely frewcos were his manuscripts. In the center is a statue of the three Graces. One could spend hours in there.
Back in the main cathedral, we noted that the floor is made of marble mosaics. The mosaics depict the figures of the Sibyls, scenes from the Old Testament, allegories, and virtues. The marble altar was created by Andrea Bregno and includes a Madonna and Child by Jacopo della Quercia as well as four statues of saints by Michelangelo. There are several elaborate chapels as well, one designed by Bernini. The bell tower was added in 1313 and is Romanesque in design. There was so much to see and absorb in the cathedral.
This story of the She-Wolf pedestal come from the Siena Italy Guides. “A striking feature of the Piazza del Duomo is the Column of the She-Wolf. According to legend, the sons of Remus were the original founders of Siena.
Romulus and Remus, born of a she-wolf had founded Rome, but when Romulus killed Remus his sons feared for their lives and fled the city. As they left Rome, they stole the statue of the She-Wolf from Apollo’s Temple.
Their hasty journey brought them to the hill of Castelvecchio where they founded the ancient city of Sena (named after Senius). While becoming a symbol of the new city, the she-wolf was also a permanent reminder of their origins.”
From the Cathedral, we wandered through the narrow streets of Gothic structures to the Piazza del Campo, a beautiful medieval square, the center of the town. It was full of people despite the rain. The square has nine sections, honoring the medieval Council of Nine. On one side is the Palazzo Publico or town hall, built in 1297. It’s campanile or bell tower, Torre del Mangia, was built betwee1325 and 1344. The square has several cafes where people sit and enjoy a cappuccino or meal. Every April and September, the Piazza is covered with sand for the Palio bareback horse race, where each of the 17 districts of Siena compete with each other.
After the tour, we had a nice lunch at Osteria Le Logge. The restaurant was originally a pharmacy. Then we strolled for a bit until the rain started again. I retreated to a café on the Piazza to enjoy a cappuccino and people-watch until it was time to return to the bus. In spite of the rain, it was a wonderful visit.
Next is Cortona.
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