After leaving the island and returning to Perast, we went on to Kotor.
A UNESCO world heritage site, the well preserved medieval walled town of Kotor sits at the foot of Mt. Lovćen at the southern end of the Boka Bay in Kotor Bay. Kotor’s fortifications grew up St John’s Hill from the 9th until the 19th century. There are 1350 steps to the St John’s Fortress at the top for those craving for magnificent views over the town and the bay.
Kotor was ruled by Illyrians, Romans, Byzantines, Austro-Hungarians, and Venetians. These conquerors have left many fortunes behind, such as renaissance palaces, baroque towers, and its most monumental testament, the Cathedral of St. Tripun, The abundance of cultural and artistic monuments has set Kotor on the UNESCO’s list of protected cultural heritage.
There are three gates at the Old Town. Kotor also has the Fairy Gate – an arching rock above the town. Legend says that only the fairy’s favorites, direct descendants of the old sailors and founders of the town, can see her sitting on the rock and waiting for the golden ship on which she will set sail into the distant world only to return and confirm that Kotor is the most beautiful town in the world.
We entered the Sea Gate (Main Gate) that was built in 1555 by the Venetians, who ruled Kotor from 1420 to 1797. Originally the gate was decorated with the Venetian winged lion. In 1897 the Austrians added a plate that included an Austrian coat of arms, but both the Venetian and Austrian reliefs were destroyed after Kotor’s liberation from Nazi occupation. Now, the date 21-XI-1944 appears where the Venetian winged lion was. This commemorates the date Kotor was freed.
As you walk through the gate you’ll see a Gothic relief on your right. The relief is from the 15th century and shows the Virgin Mary with Christ. On her right is Saint Tryphon, the patron saint of Kotor, and to her left is Saint Bernard.
The gate opens up on the central plaza, the Square of the Arms, featuring some of Kotor’s most important landmarks such as Rector’s Palace, Napoleon’s Theatre, and the clock tower from 1602. In front of the tower stands a tiny stone obelisk (“pillar of shame”) which was a place of punishment in the Middle Ages. From the clock tower we walked past the pharmacy to the Pima Palace, one of the most regal and beautiful palaces in Kotor. The palace was built in the 17th century after the 1667 earthquake destroyed an earlier palace. It has both Baroque and Renaissance features. The second-floor balcony has a large balcony with wrought iron fence, made by Kotor’s renowned blacksmiths. Today Pima Palace is the home of the Gallery of Solidarity.
From there we passed the Buca Family Palace, built in the 14th century. It belonged to the most significant and richest manor family of the time, named Buća. It was destroyed in the 1667 earthquake and rebuilt in the 18thcentury by another family.
Next we came to St. Tryphon Cathedral, the most iconic building in Kotor. It is unmistakable with its two bell-towers against the backdrop of San Giovanni Fortress snaking up the mountain behind it.
The cathedral was built in the 12th century on the site of an older church, which was consecrated on 13th January 809 to house the remains of Saint Tryphon, which were brought from Constantinople. The baroque bell towers were added in 1667 after the entire frontage was destroyed by the earthquake. The left tower remains unfinished to this day.
Notable features of St. Tryphon’s Cathedral include the gilded-silver bas-relief altar screen, which dates to the 18th century and is a testament to the craftsmanship of the period. Another striking feature is the Golden Altarpiece, positioned on the wall of the apse, which depicts Christ, the Virgin, St. John the Baptist, St. Tryphon, and sixteen other saints. This masterpiece was created by Kotor’s goldsmiths during the first half of the 15th century.
St Tryphon is revered by both Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is the protector saint of Kotor.
Walking through the old town we came to this old Medieval arch. Then, looking up toward the fortress, we saw the Church of Our Lady of Remedy, perched on the slope of the St. John Mountain. It dates from 1518. Archeological evidence found under the church suggests it was built on the site of a church from the 6th century. The church can only be reached on foot: the rocks and the stairs that lead to the structures on the slope make this church a difficult and time-consuming place to reach. Nevertheless, many tourists and local citizens visit this church daily. I
St. Mary’s Church was next. Saint Mary’s Church is a 13th century church built on the remains of a 6th century church. The older church had a pool for baptizing adults, which suggests it was the bishop’s seat and therefore the most important church in Kotor. The current church was consecrated in 1221 and was built with alternating rows of delicate pink and grey stone. The chapel of Saint John was added in the 15th century, and the bell-tower was added in the 18th century. The fresco fragments inside the church date to the 14th century.
The most notable and valuable piece of the church is the bronze bas-relief door. It depicts the life of Blessed Osanna of Cattaro and was made by artist, Vasko Lipovac.
Nearby, Saint Luke’s Church is a relatively unimposing building, but it’s one of the most important in Kotor. Originally Saint Luke’s was a Catholic church, but became Orthodox in 1657, when it was given to Kotor’s Orthodox citizens. It kept a Catholic altar until 1812 and both Catholic and Orthodox masses were performed here.
Some of the highlights of St. Luke’s Church are the large crucifix made in 1710 and the Iconostasis by Daskal Dimitrije. The church has both an Orthodox altar and a Catholic altar.
Finally we saw St. Nicholas Church, a Serbian Orthodox church that dominates St Luke’s Square. You’ll recognize it by the twin domed towers. It’s a relatively new building, completed in 1909 after a fire ruined the original church that was built in 1810. The church still has icons from the 15th to 19th centuries–Portraits of Mark, Luke, Matthew and John near the entrance,
Returning to the Square of the Arms with its view of the mountains and the trail to the fortress, this ended our exploration of the city of Kotor.
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