Kauaʻi’s dramatic North Shore is an enchanting setting full of rugged mountains, lush taro fields, colorful beaches, and spectacular sea cliffs. It spans the coast from Kilauea to Ke’e Beach at the end of the road.
Ke’e Beach is in Ha’ena State Park. I will start here and work back to Kilauea. The whole area of Ke’e is nothing short of spectacular with translucent turquoise-blue water and golden sandy beaches, framed by soaring Na Pali sea cliffs on the left and surrounded by jungle. This is our kids’ favorite beach. To get there you have to cross several one-lane wooden bridges. In the storm and flood of 2018, mudslides and washouts closed the road from Hanalie to the beach; it remained closed until 2021. Now non-residents must make a reservation to go the beach.
Ke’e is reef protected, making it perfect for snorkeling and swimming. Lay in the sun, play in the ocean, sit in the shade, take a long walk along the beach; you choose.
The Kalalau trail, which starts here, runs from Ke’e beach 11 miles into Kalalau Valley, and it requires a permit. It is thought to be one of the most beautiful and dangerous hikes in the US
On the road back to Hanalei, you will pass a dry cave in the hillside. This is the Maniniholo Cave, which is located directly across from the Ha’ena Beach Park. Legend has it that this cave used to be a tunnel to Waimea Canyon, and that during a conflict between the Menehune and the Polynesian settlers, the Menehune were on the run from Waimea Canyon, being pursued by the Polynesians. They used this secret tunnel to escape to the North Shore. After they were all through the tunnel, they created a collapse at the tunnel ceiling, trapping the Polynesians inside and leading to the formation of the dry cave.
We always told our grandchildren that it was Puff the Magic Dragon’s Cave.
Between the cave and Hanalei, is the third National Botanical Garden, the Limahuli Botanical Garden. We visited here on our first trip to the island. It provides a glimpse into the amazing biodiversity of Kauai. The authentic landscape features all the native vegetation, natural streams, and geological wonders that have been here for more than 1,500 years. Since this garden serves as a place of refuge for so much life, it’s even home to endangered birds and plants of all kinds. Much of it was washed away in the 2018 storm, but it is reclaimed, and the vegetation has grown back, so a visit is worth it.
Tunnels Beach or Makua Beach is next on the road. This is a haven for shelling, snorkeling, and scuba diving during summer. Palms and Ironwood trees fringe this crescent-shaped bay. Our son did several scuba trips here looking at the underwater lava tunnels that create a unique marine environment. The clear waters teem with colorful fish and coral formations provide an unforgettable experience.
Hanalei is a favorite place of ours to visit. It is a “hippie” and surfer mecca. It is nestled between the jagged Wainiha Mountains and the ocean. Hanalei is home to “Puff the Magic Dragon” who “frolicked in the ocean waves in a land called Hanalei.” The main street features seweral historic buildings, shops, and restaurants, as well as art galleries.
On the west side of the town is the Historic Wai’oli Church, which has recorded services since 1834. It was first a Congregational Church, and in 1957 it joined the United Church of Christ denomination. The interior is lovely with beautiful stained-glass windows.
The crescent-shaped Hanalei Bay is one of Hawaii’s most scenic and pleasant beaches. The historic Hanalei Pier was built in 1892 and has long been a favorite gathering place for local residents, who go there to fish, swim, and play music on Hanalei Bay. Kids love to jump off the pier into the bay.
Driving east from Hanalie, you come to Princeville with lots of golf courses; Princeville was named after the Prince of Hawaii before its overthrow. After Princeville is another great beach Anini Beach. This is often called the best beach in Kauai.
After Anini Beach we come to the historic town of Kilauea with its lighthouse. Kīlauea is a quaint, charming town. There are still many buildings that exist in Kīlauea that were constructed during the plantation period, such as the Kong Lung Historic Market Center which began as the Kīlauea Sugar Plantation in the late-1800s.
Coming into Hanalei from ke’e, there are about six one lane bridges to cross. Exiting Hanalei there is one.
The Daniel K. Inouye Kīlauea Point Lighthouse is also a historic treasure that was built in the 1900s to help sailors find their way to the small town to deliver supplies. Now, the lighthouse sits within the Kīlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge which was established in the 1980s to help protect Kaua‘i’s magnificent population of seabirds that nest along the cliffs of this northernmost point of the island.
This town was also once the location of the state’s largest guava plantation. The business closed in 2007, and landowners have since turned some of the acreage into an alluring path called the Wai Koa Loop Trail
Farther south toward Kapaa is Anahola. Anahola has a wonderful surfing beach, but for me it is the home of King Kong. Kalalea Mountain is located on the northeast side of the mountain range near the town of Anahola. It is often referred to as King Kong’s Profile or simply King Kong due the resemblance to that fictional giant. King Kong is visible from Kapa’s and even farther south. It is a landmark.
Farther south toward Kapaa is Anahola. Anahola has a wonderful surfing beach, but for me it is the home of King Kong. Kalalea Mountain is located on the northeast side of the mountain range near the town of Anahola. It is often referred to as King Kong’s Profile or simply King Kong due the resemblance to that fictional giant. King Kong is visible from Kapa’s and even farther south. It is a landmark.
So you see the North Shore has much to visit and see. It is my favorite place to visit on the island.
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